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# PETER SIPELI GIVES VISITORS A DOSE OF REALITY IN HIS TOURS OF THE UNDERBELLY OF FIJI’S CAPITAL

Posted on September 6, 2025 5 Comments

13 years ago, I wrote an article about my place of birth entitled “Suva, City of Dreams”. (See the link below)

Even then, there was a degree of derision about the white man who had clearly had too much sun ( or strong drink) with his romanticised depiction of a city that few other people could still recognise. But I made, and make, no apology for it. For the Suva of my childhood was a magical place and it remains so in my mind’s eye well over a half a century later.

So it is with a distinct degree of sadness that I read the following article in today’s Guardian Australia about the tours of the capital being conducted by local identity Peter Sipeli.

I’m not quibbling with what Peter Sipeli says about the state of Suva. In my more recent experience, it is painfully accurate. It’s just that I am left in a state of wistfulness, as doubtless he is too, about what might have been had everyone cared more for the Grand Old Dame that is at our nation’s heart.

Isa. A metaphor for an entire nation pissing its capital city up against the wall.

Now a flashback to what the deluded old white man wrote 13 years ago.

As an old saying goes, nostalgia ain’t what it used to be. But is it too much to hope that a new generation might try to reverse the decline of our beloved capital?

# SUVA, CITY OF DREAMS

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. CJ says

    September 6, 2025 at 6:40 pm

    If the elite think tax holidays are the way to go for resource extractors then Fiji has come full circle and has no hope. Perhaps Peter should write a poem about that? The selling out of Fiji by its own elite?

    Reply
  2. Anonymous 21 says

    September 7, 2025 at 8:18 am

    It all reflects the failure of leadership since 1970.

    The post-1987 military played a major role in wrecking the country. Seeking forgiveness among themselves, rather than from the victims, demonstrates their stupidity.

    Reply
  3. Fiji Watcher says

    September 7, 2025 at 8:36 am

    Visited for 7 hours in May this year.

    Suva is tired and rundown with buildings and infrastructure looking in need of serous work.

    Got constantly asked for money by street people and beggars, with young iTaukei men harassing me and those wth me saying “you are white so you’re rich, give us money”. They seemed to think they are ‘entitled’.

    Glad I am no longer there!

    Reply
  4. Anonymous says

    September 7, 2025 at 11:43 am

    The people of Fiji lack civic pride. Not just in Suva. The whole of Fiji has become a rubbish dump with plastic bags, empty cartons, empty drinks bottles and cans strewn all over everywhere.

    It is a direct effect of Fijis rapid growth in consumerism and lack of civic education.

    Anti-litter law fines and single use plastic bag ban/fee have not produced the desired effect. There needs to be more education starting from home level and at primary school.

    The big soft drinks/bottle water companies need to be held responsible for the waste they create. They have to take back their empties and recycle them.

    Suva city itself will look a lot prettier if we have a more stable political environment conducive for investment for property owners to maintain their buildings and properties. At the moment we do not have that. Most are probably trying to sell and get out.

    Economic development is necessary in a capitalist economy like Fiji, however it must be done so in an environmentally sustainable way.

    This can be done easily with the right balance of education, legislation, compliance and proper enforcement of these legislations. And no corruption of course in enforcing these laws.

    Reply
  5. Municipal councils says

    September 7, 2025 at 12:14 pm

    Thanks, Peter. Greatest obstacles are firstly, Rabuka upholding Frank’s suspension of local government elections.

    Secondly, the inevitable appointment of failed election candidates and cronies to be the Special Administrator/CEOs of municipal councils.

    Suva’s is particularly notorious for corrupt leadership and weak governance under a flirty local government minister and a ps who seems to have lost her competence.

    Reply

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About Grubsheet

Graham Davis
Grubsheet Feejee is the blogsite of Graham Davis, an award-winning journalist turned communications consultant who was the Fijian Government’s principal communications advisor for six years from 2012 to 2018 and continued to work on Fiji’s global climate and oceans campaign up until the end of the decade.

 

Fiji-born to missionary parents and a dual Fijian-Australian national, Graham spent four decades in the international media before returning to Fiji to work full time in 2012. He reported from many parts of the world for the BBC, ABC, SBS, the Nine and Seven Networks and Sky News and wrote for a range of newspapers and magazines in Australia, New Zealand and Fiji.

 

Graham launched Grubsheet Feejee in 2011 and suspended writing for it after the Fijian election of 2014, by which time he was working at the heart of government. But the website continued to attract hits as a background resource on events in Fiji in the transition back to parliamentary democracy.

 

Grubsheet relaunches in 2020 at one of the most critical times in Fijian history, with the nation reeling from the Covid-19 crisis and Frank Bainimarama’s government shouldering the twin burdens of incumbency and economic disintegration.

 

Grubsheet’s sole agenda is the national interest; the strengthening of Fiji’s ties with the democracies; upholding equal rights for all citizens; government that is genuinely transparent and free of corruption and nepotism; and upholding Fiji’s service to the world in climate and oceans advocacy and UN Peacekeeping.

 

Comments are welcome and you can contact me in the strictest confidence at grubsheetfeedback@gmail.com

 

(Feejee is the original name for Fiji - a derivative of the indigenous Viti and the Tongan Fisi - and was widely used until the late 19th century)

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